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If you love using inkpads, a heat tool (also called an embossing gun) is a handy tool to have. A heat tool enables you to dry ink quickly, or emboss with embossing powder for a raised effect.
Using a Heat Tool
“Can’t I just use a hair dryer?” you might ask. Well, you won’t get the same great results—a heat gun gets much hotter much more quickly, and the nozzle is designed to concentrate the heat directly onto your project. And forget that old idea about holding your project over the toaster—it doesn’t work! A heat tool costs about $30.00 and as with any technique, you’ll have better results if you’re using good tools.
Most heat tools are designed to be held 6”-8” above the surface and should be moved consistently back and forth to prevent overheating in one area. Place the item you’re heating (paper, metal dog tag, domino, etc) on a flat surface. Don’t hold the item in your hand—the air and the item will become extremely hot. Be especially careful with metal and let it cool for a few minutes before handling.
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Like a hair dryer, the heat gun will cause movement. It’s a good idea to secure the corners of any paper you’re embossing onto so the sheet won’t fly away.
Heat setting: Applying the embossing heat tool over stamped or sponged areas will make the ink permanent. This works on glossy or matte paper, as well as metal or dominoes or other non-porous surfaces.
Embossing with ink and powder: This technique gives a stamped image a raised effect. Besides your heat tool, you’ll need embossing powder. Embossing powder is sold in small jars and comes in a multitude of colors. Gold, silver and black are a good basic investment.
You’ll also need an inkpad. A clear embossing ink is the easiest to use for this technique—because the ink is clear, you won’t see a color showing through the embossing when you’re done. And because the inkpad is designed for embossing, it will stay wet on your paper long enough for you to apply the powder. Pigment inkpads also work, because they’re very wet, but be sure to match the ink color to the powder color. Dye inks are usually too dry—by the time you pour the powder on top of the image, the ink will have dried and the powder won’t stick.
How to heat emboss with ink and powder:
Choose your stamp. I generally avoid stamps with very fine detail—when the powder melts, it won’t capture that detail.
Samp your image onto your surface.
While the ink is still wet, sprinkle embossing powder on top of the image. Cover it completely.
Tap off the excess powder. I usually place my item on another piece of paper while embossing, then shake the powder off the item onto the paper. Then I hold the paper as a funnel and pour the excess powder back into the container. Make sure you tap off as much excess powder as possible—any loose powder will just blow off your paper.
Replace the cap on the powder and set it aside. Many stampers have horror stories of accidentally pointing the heating tool at an uncapped container of powder and having the entire contents blow all over!
Hold the embossing tool in your hand with the nozzle pointed away from you. Turn it on and let it run for a few seconds to warm up before pointing it toward your project. Continue moving the nozzle back and forth until the powder turns to a glaze-like finish.
Turn off the heat tool—overheating the image will cause the powder to bubble. That’s it, you’re done!
Option: You’re not limited to embossing just images. Apply embossing ink directly from the pad to a torn edge of paper, then add gold embossing powder for antique, gilded effect.
Can you emboss on other surfaces besides paper? Results are mixed: You can heat-set on fabric like cotton, silk, muslin and leather. Vellum is a bit trickier, as thin vellum tends to buckle and warp under the heat gun. When in doubt, test a small piece of the material first!
For more stamping ideas and projects, check out Hot Off The Press’ The Basics of Rubber Stamping.
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